What I’d Do Again With Three Days in Plymouth
Have you thought of visiting Plymouth? The one in the UK? Of course, there is history there. But also so much more.
Every American who has sat through a third-grade Thanksgiving play knows the name Plymouth. But the original one? The English one, on the Devon coast? It never gets the same attention. Three days there is plenty to fix that, and Buddy and I would happily hop right back on the plane.
This is not a full guide, because you can find those anywhere. Think of it as my repeat list. Everything below got a simple test: would I spend my time and money on this again? Some things passed with flying colors. One or two did not.
Day One: Cobblestones, Pilgrims and a Lighthouse
Start in the Barbican. This is the old harbor quarter, with narrow lanes, little galleries and fish and chips that taste better because of the gulls trying to steal them. Guard your lunch. I mean it.
Right by the water are the Mayflower Steps. The ship left Plymouth on September 16, 1620, and standing on that spot as an American feels a little strange. The memorial itself is modest. It takes about five minutes to see. The history takes a lot longer to sink in.
From there, walk up to the Hoe, the big green seafront park with views across Plymouth Sound. Climb Smeaton’s Tower, the red and white striped lighthouse, if your knees are feeling brave. It has 93 steps, and some of them are steep ladders.
Would I do it again? The Barbican and the Hoe, yes, in a heartbeat. I would just wear better shoes. Cobblestones are charming for about an hour, and then your lower back starts sending complaints.
Day Two: The Sore Back Morning, or What Does a Chiropractor Do Anyway?
Here is the part of travel nobody puts on Instagram. An overnight flight, a day of cobblestones and a steep lighthouse ladder will catch up with you. By the second morning, I was walking like a woman three times my age, and Buddy was no help at all.
It got me reading up on what chiropractors do, since I had always been a bit fuzzy on it. A chiropractor is a healthcare practitioner who focuses on the muscles, joints and nerves, especially around the spine. A first visit usually involves an exam and a look at your posture. Treatment can then include hands-on adjustments, plus exercises and advice for the way you move and sit.
Plymouth has its own options if you need one, like Ocean City Chiropractic near the city center. It is useful to know before you land, especially if you are planning long walking days and have a back with opinions.
First, though, try the simple stuff. The NHS says staying active is better than staying in bed, and that heat or ice packs may ease the stiffness. It also says back pain usually improves within a few weeks. If your pain is severe, or you notice numbness or weakness in your legs, skip the blogs and get medical help.
So I stretched, took it slow, and rearranged the day around flat ground. That leads me to the next item on my repeat list.
Royal William Yard, the flat and fabulous option
This former navy supply yard is now full of restaurants, shops and a cinema. It is gorgeous, all grand stone buildings right on the water, and best of all, it is level. Stroll, eat, sit by the sea and repeat.
A short boat ride from here takes you over to Mount Edgcumbe, a country park with sea views and very pretty gardens. It is a lovely way to spend an afternoon without racking up a huge step count.
Would I do it again? Yes, and I would book a late lunch here on purpose. Best slow afternoon of the whole trip.
Day Three: A Taste of the Coast Path
With my back behaving again, I wanted to get out on the coast. The South West Coast Path runs for 630 miles from Minehead to Poole Harbour, and no, we did not attempt that. A few miles was just fine for me.
The stretch around Mount Edgcumbe and the Cornish side of the water is a great way to get a taste of it. You get salty air, big views and hardly any effort compared to the wilder sections further along. Pack layers, because the weather here changes its mind often.
Would I do it again? Absolutely, but in proper hiking shoes and with a lighter backpack. Those two swaps would have saved me a lot of grumbling.
The Repeat List vs. the Skip List
Not everything made the cut, so here is my quick scorecard for anyone planning their own three days.
- Do again: The Box. It’s a museum and art gallery with free entry, which makes it a great rainy-day plan.
- Do again: National Marine Aquarium. The UK’s largest aquarium has over 4,000 animals, and Buddy approved of the sharks from a safe distance.
- Do differently: The lighthouse climb. Go on the first day, not after a long walk, and take your time on the ladders.
- Skip next time: Rushing. I tried to fit too much into the first day, and my back sent me the bill.
If you have an extra day, Dartmoor National Park is a short drive away. It is on my list for the next visit, along with a very long nap.
A Few Tips Before You Go
Book your dinners on the weekend, especially around the waterfront. Bring a raincoat in every season. And if you are flying in from the States, go easy on that first day. Your body has just crossed an ocean, and it will want some kindness.
I also keep a small travel kit now with a heat pack and a tennis ball for working out knots in my shoulders. It takes up almost no room, and it has already earned its place in my bag.
Would I Go Back?
Without a doubt. Plymouth surprised me. It is salty, a bit scrappy, full of history and much kinder to the wallet than London. I went for the Pilgrim story and stayed for the sea views.
Next time, I will pack better shoes and leave some gaps in the schedule. Buddy has already claimed the window seat. He says the fish and chips are worth the jet lag, and for once, I completely agree with that monkey.
